Lowering cars usually consists of a shorter spring set with a higher spring rate. A higher spring rate (stiffer spring) can afford a good ride quality but makes up for losing suspension travel by having stronger resistance and stopping the wheel/tire combination for hitting the suspension limiters (bump stops).
In the process of lowering a car it is usually beneficial to also change and upgrade the shocks or struts for the maximum increase in finding a “tuned” suspension system. When the right combination is found, large increases in cornering speed and even acceleration will appear.
There are kits available that offer adjustable ride height (coil-overs). When done correctly, coil-overs are a fine solution, but have a race ready ride (hard). Currently there is a huge over abundance of poor quality coil-over kits. Buyers beware! When lowering only involves replacing coil springs prices are $380-$690, if you include performance struts or shocks $550 to $1500 is normal pricing, that can also skyrocket with electronic or adjustable struts and shocks.
Lowering trucks is usually the first step in upgrading performance and looks. The suspension systems are built differently than passenger cars so they can withstand a greater variance of payload capacity and uses. Most “sport trucks” are not used for hauling things but there is no reason that the truck cannot be used or even improved upon in that respect.
Available options of leaf springs for the rear and even air bag load assist systems keep your options open. The front suspension can be lowered with the use of upper control arms, lower control arms (sometimes both), spindles, or even just springs (coil or torsion). A correctly lowered truck with a tuned suspension of spindles, springs, shocks, leaf springs, and a wider wheel-tire combination can easily out perform most cars.
When you lower a vehicle you almost always limit the suspension travel. In the front, springs with a higher spring rate (stiffness) and shorter bump-stops will help. In the rear, good shocks and a c-notch (where you cut the frame like a “C” then bolt or weld on a brace) will help. Always include room for good shocks that are valved for lowered applications, they are not only physically shorter they are also stiffer (like the springs) to eliminate the “bottoming-out” and resulting bad ride and bad handling.
To lower a mini-truck starts as low as $120, while full-size trucks start at $290 for a minimum drop to $750 and up for more of a drop.
See our friends at Eibach.com, Groundforce.com, Mcgaughys.com, Belltechcorp.com and djmsuspension.com.
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